Hampi – The land of Myth & Spirituality

Last Updated on 26/12/2024

Hampi is nothing short of cultural poetry. Home to evocative medieval ruins of the Vijayanagara Empire and the capital of three generations of Hindu rulers, Hampi reached the height of its glory under the rule of Krishnadevaraya in the 16th century.

Location: Karnataka, on the Tungabhadra River.
Built in: 14th century by the Sangama Dynasty, expanded by Krishnadevaraya.
Timings: 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM.
Time Required: 2-3 days.
Entry Fees: ₹30 (Indian), ₹500 (Foreign).
Best Time to Visit: October to March.
How to Reach: Nearest airport: Hubli (160 km); nearest railway station: Hospet (13 km).

Hampi in Karnataka

Hampi

It is a place that the discerning traveler lingers over. Not least because this UNESCO-accredited World Heritage Site, located on the banks of the Tungabhadra River, is ruggedly spectacular. If the granite boulders that dot the landscape could speak, they’d tell of a time when precious stones embellished stone structures and when kings were weighed against gold to distribute wealth among the poor.

Dhanwanti Nayak writes in her article “Hampi, the Lost Empire” – “It is a place that was reputedly even larger than the Rome of its time… an empire that covered most of peninsular India at its peak. The kingdom took root in the environs of Hampi when Harihara and Bukka, two brothers from the Sangama family, established the empire around 1336. In all, 23 kings from four dynasties ruled the land over 300 years. Krishnadevaraya and his half-brother Achyuta Raya were its most legendary monarchs. They were eventually defeated in the Battle of Talikota in 1565, which resulted in the mass pillaging of Hampi. Such were its riches that it took hundreds of elephants more than six months to carry the loot out of Hampi.”

It is often a challenge to linger for a few days, as there’s never respite from the visual stimulation on offer. For example, as you make your way through the royal centers of the ancient empire, you encounter everything from Sugriva’s Cave, a natural cleft between granite boulders, to the awe-inspiring Hazara Rama Temple, and an aqueduct that once transported water from the Tungabhadra River to the royal centers. An archaeological museum along the way adds to the experience, as does the guide you hire. Not only does he regale you with stories, but he also provides explanations on details you might otherwise overlook. For instance, it is he who informs you that it was the rocky terrain and surrounding hillocks that made Hampi an ideal defensive location for kings who, at the time, depended on conquest to amass more wealth.

Although you can hire a rickshaw, as many tourists do, to rush through all the major sites in a day, exploration is best done over a week and, as much as possible, on foot. If you choose to walk slowly, you’ll have time to do more than just exclaim in rapture over the temples. Instead, you can meditate over the exquisite details, such as the panel of celestial nymphs riding on parrots or the mythical leonine beasts that adorn the outer piers of the temple.

Situated on the banks of the river, a wander through the Sacred Centre puts all your senses to work. One look at the Vitthala Temple, the grandest of all the monuments here, is clear evidence of this. Your eyes drink in the elaborate columned halls. Your ears tune in to the musical columns that emit different tones when lightly tapped. Your nose tells you to keep moving, as there is much to sniff out and see: from the impressive Virupaksha Temple, dedicated to the goddess Pampa, to Hemakuta Hill, scattered with numerous pre- and early-Vijayanagara shrines.

The Royal Centre nearby reminds one of a lost Eden. You’ll pass the Queen’s Bath, an open-air structure designed for royal recreation, and the Lotus Mahal, which was once a speculation chamber for the king. But the bliss that comes from wandering through poetry in stone is most felt at sunrise and sunset — when you watch an elephant wander towards the river for its bath or priests troop towards the temple for prayer. You reflect on your day’s adventures as you scour the flea market for souvenirs made from banana fibers and river grass.

Pattadakal: Another Gem

Like Hampi, Pattadakal is picturesquely situated on the banks of a river and is also a UNESCO-accredited World Heritage Site. Located on the Malaprabha River, it was the coronation town of the early Chalukyas and primarily used for royal festivities. This ancient settlement boasts artistic achievements centered around 8th-century temple styles that combine North and South Indian architecture. While admiring the Galaganatha Temple with its tower or the unusual Kashi Vishwanath Temple, pay attention to the minute details. For instance, Shiva emerging from the fiery linga at the Virupaksha Temple, or Nataraja dancing on a ceiling panel of the Papanatha Temple, or the battle between Arjuna and Shiva depicted on the Virupaksha Temple.

It is with a desire to return to and revisit Hampi and Pattadakal that you leave. What else can be expected from spaces that look like they were created by a poet, whose words were uttered in stone?

Suggested Tour: South India Temple Tour Package

A Window to the Past

In addition to time spent exploring Hampi and Pattadakal, stop at the historic hamlet of Anegundi, which lies on the opposite banks of the Tungabhadra River. What adds to the charm of the visit is that Anegundi can be reached by circular-shaped boats called coracles, which resemble one half of a hollow coconut.

When you arrive at Anegundi, dilapidated temples, palaces, and bathing ghats provide an insight into the former glory of a place that was a significant settlement before the establishment of Vijayanagara. The mud-clad houses and picturesque views of the river only add to the charm.